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..(You may click on the subjects below to go straight to the bookmarked educational sites on this same page, or you may just scroll down.) Covered are the following materials:
(To print a selection, click on "File" at top of screen, then click on "Print Preview". This will show you each page and then you can find and print the page or pages that has the information you want. )
| EDUCATIONAL MATERIALS.. |
| -- Links to South African Breeders, Goat Info. covering Diseases, Medications, Butchering, Management, Nutrition, .Books, Talk Lists, Portable Shelters, Goat Associations, Goat Embroidery, Show Calendars, Goat Supplies, Drawing Blood, Advertising, Birthing, Veterinarian Drug index and more. |
| ................................................................ |
| -- Purchasing a Buck | --Drawing Blood | |
| --AMGA Standard | -- Tattooing Codes | --Teat Comparisons |
| Our Barn Builders: http://www.winsettbarn.qpg.com/index.html | --Testing Laboratories | |
| -- Gestation Table | --C/L Location Diagrams | |
| ...Link to Kidding Information | --Mineral Feeder Link | |
| --Judging By Points | -- Bottle Feeding | |
| --Health Care Guidelines Includes: Pneumonia, Abortion, Urinary Calculi, Ketosis, Johnnes, Parasites, Coccidiosis, Floppy Kid, Acidosis, Overeating, Lice, CL, Ringworm, Soremouth, Foot&Mouth, CAE, Listerosis, Tetanus, Polio, Rabies, Pinkeye, and Entropion eye. | ![]() CLICK HERE TO RETURN TO HOME PAGE, includes buck, doe, & developmental photos, kids for sale, etc. |
| -- Urinary Problems | --History of Boer Goats | |
| -- Links concerning Goats | --Contacting MAC GOATS | .....Link to Goat Autopsy |
| ---Fetal Development | ALL ABOUT KIDDING BEFORE & AFTER | |
| ---IDENTIFYING PASTURE GRASSES | ||
| ....SHOW TRIMMING CHART | ||
...USDA GOAT GRADING STANDARDS |
....Humane Euthanasia |



LINKS TO WEBSITES OF INTEREST...EDUCATIONAL & OTHER ...CLICK ON THE UNDERSCORED http's TO GO TO SITE! (Return)
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REPRODUCTIVE SERVICES: |
| Go to: http://www.superiorsemenworks.com/ for AI Services, Semen Collection, etc. Geoff & Nancy Masterman, 603) 512-5546 or superiorsemenworks@yahoo.com (Located in Bucyrus, Ohio) |
| Go to: http://www.reliablegenetics.com/semenforsale.htm for AI Services, Semen Collection, etc. John & Debbie McElrath ; reliablegenetics@sbcglobal.net (501) 984-6461 (Located in Jessieville, Arkansas) |
| Go to: http://www.sheepandgoat.com/manage.html for all kinds of goat management and care and information. |
| Go to: http://www.psu.missouri.edu/fishel/field_crops.htm for descriptions and photos of various pasture grasses, plants, and weeds. |
| Go to: http://salubriavalleymeatgoats.com/meat_cuts.htm |
| Go to: http://www.conklin.com/pg.asp?p=1153&m=g2566:825 to find out about Fastrack Probiotics for Goats. |
| Go to: http://www.bouncinghoofs.com/fetusdev.html for fetal development photos and explanations. |
| Go to: http://tin.er.usgs.gov/geochem/doc/averages/se/usa.html for interactive map of chemical composition of soils (ie: Selinium, etc.) |
| Go to: http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/course/3443/study/images.htm REPRODUCTION...Visual Study Aids (Images and Slides) to aid learning Reproduction in Farm Animals by Rod Geisert |
| Go to http://www.jackmauldin.com/boer_history.htm Brief History of the Boer Goat |
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Go to
http://www.jackmauldin.com
Photos of
Ennobled goats can be found on
Jack & Anita Mauldin's Boer Goats, This is a great site---lots of info on
goats!.
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| Go to http://ramboranch.com/how_to_raise_a_show_wether.htm for information on raising/showing wethers. |
| Go to http://www.fiascofarm.com/goats/kid-care.htm RAISING GOAT KIDS from before KIDDING, through BIRTH, and WEANING. |
| Go to http://goatconnection.com/articles/publish/index.shtml ALL ASPECTS OF MEATGOATS and more! Fencing, feeding and nutrition, medications, testing, shelters, etc. |
| Go to http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/ for information data on all sorts of MANAGEMENT topics regarding goats, including DISEASE; written by Suzanne Gasparato, who publishes monthly articles in the top national goat magazines. |
| Go to http://www.triquestboergoats.com for excellent NUTRITIONAL topics and nutritional PRODUCTS designed specifically for goats, plus goat management articles. | ||
| Go to http://goatsupplies.netfirms.com/ for Furney Register's GOAT AND SHEEP SUPPLIES of all kinds. | ||
| Go to http://www.internetvets.com/main.htm for VETERINARY DRUGS, This site has an Online Reference on uses and restrictions of drugs. | ||
| Go to http://www.tyny.com/ligaments.html to see photos and info on determining birthing time by testing TAIL LIGAMENTS | ||
| Go to http://www.saanendoah.com/wsucae.html for Washington Animal Disease Diagnostic Laboratory CAE article. | ||
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| Go to http://www.shelters-to-go.com for a source of PORTABLE SHELTERS. | ||
| Go to http://groups.yahoo.com if you want to participate or evesdrop on GOAT DIALOGS discussed via Email. This is like fine tuning your own "talk radio show"! I recommend "Chevontalk" and "The Boer Goat" . | ||
| Go to: http://www.boergoats.com/articles/drawingblood/drawingblood.htm for pictures and text on DRAWING YOUR OWN BLOOD FOR TESTING. | ||
| Go to: http://www.ics.uci.edu/~pazzani/4H/GoatsHome.html for information on GOAT HUSBANDRY, YOUTH SHOWMANSHIP AND GOAT CARE. | ||
| Go to: http://duhgoatman.tripod.com/goatkingdom.htm, Here is a link to Goat Kingdom a very INFORMATIVE LINK for all sorts of goat stuff! | ||
| Go to: http://www.boergoats.com/clean/coverpage.php This link is a "Boer Central" place to direct you in all sorts of directions of interest. | ||
| Go to: http://studbook.co.za/Breeders/elandskloof/index.htm to visit South African Breeder Voster. | ||
| Go to: http://studbook.co.za/Breeders/botha/index.html to visit South African Breeder Botha.. | ||
| Go to: http://www.t4ranch.com/goat_meat_cuts.html for excellent pictures of goat meat cuts. |
| Go to: http://www.fiascofarm.com/goats/medications.htm for information on GOAT MEDICATIONS. | |||||||
Go to:
http://www.boergoats.com/articles/construction/grain-mineralfeeders.htm
How to make
MINERAL FEEDERS to hang on panels or gates to keep goats from
contaminating with parasites.
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| Go to: GOAT ASSOCIATIONS.............. (Return) | |||||||
American
Meat Goat Assoc.:
http://www.meatgoats.com/ |
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American
Boer Goat Assoc.: http://www.abga.org/ |
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| The International Boer Goat Association (Texas): http://www.intlboergoat.org | |||||||
| The USBGA (Spicewood, Texas): http://www.usbgaboers.org | |||||||
| The ADGA: http://www.adga.org |
| Canadian Boer Goat Assoc.: http://www.canadianboergoat.com |
| American Kiko Goat Info.: http://www.kikogoats.com/ Or : kiko@inreach.com |
| International Fainting Goat Association (Myotonic Goats) http://www.faintinggoat.com |
| TO RETURN TO EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL INDEX CLICK ON (Return). |
| TESTING LABORATORIES: (Return) |
| WASHINGTON ANIMAL DISEASE DIAGNOSTIC LABORATORY | ||||||
| College of Veterinary Medicine - Washington State University | ||||||
| P.O. Box 2037 College Station/Bustad Hall, Rm 155-N | ||||||
| Pullman, WA 99165-2037 | ||||||
| Phone: (509)335-9696 .....FAX: (509)335-7424
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| CALIFORNIA VETERINARY DIAGNOSTIC LABORATORY SYSTEM | ||||||
| University of California, Davis | ||||||
| W. Health Sciences Drive | ||||||
| Davis, CA 95616 | ||||||
| General Info: (530)752-8700 | ||||||
| Case Inquiries:
(530)752-7578......FAX:(530)752-6253
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RETURN TO EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL INDEX CLICK ON (Return) |
The "Other" Red Meat (Comparison of Meats)
| 3 oz. Roasted.. | Calories. | Fat (g).. | Saturated Fat (g).. | Protein (g) | Iron (g) |
GOAT (1) |
122 |
2.58 |
0.79 |
23 |
3.2 |
BEEF (2) |
245 |
16 |
6.8 |
23 |
2.2 |
PORK (2) |
310 |
24 |
8.7 |
21 |
2.7 |
LAMB |
235 |
16 |
7.3 |
22 |
1.4 |
CHICKEN (2) |
120 |
3.5 |
1.1 |
21 |
1.5 |
| Source: (1) USDA Handbook #8 1989 | |
| Source: (2) Nutritive Value of Foods, Home & Garden Bulletin No. 71 USDA, Washington, D.C. Government Printing Office 1981 |
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(Return) to index
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CASEOUS LYMPHADENITIS, Commonly referred to as CL |
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The areas in the diagram to the left
that are pink are the common sites where CL can occur.
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There
are many other reasons a swelling and cyst can occur. The diagram to
the left shows sites that are common for other causes that may not be
related to CL. Illustrated in this diagram from 1 to 7 are the
following: (1)Cheek abscess or cud retention; (2)Salivary mucocele, (3)Tooth root abscess, (4)Bottle jaw, (5)Thyroid gland, (6)Thymus gland, and (7)Wattle cyst.
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| (Return) to index |
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GUIDELINES FOR MAINTAINING GOOD GOAT HERD HEALTH |
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From article by: Dr. Gary L. Vannoy, D.V.M. |
| Entropion: Entropion is an inversion of the upper, lower or both eyelids. The lower lid is commonly affected. This is usually seen as a watery eye in a kid that is just a few days old. Entropion requires immediate attention to prevent permanent damage to the eyeball. The lid may be sutured, stapled or inverted with a bolus of penicillin. This condition is very hereditary, so don't ever select a herd sire whose eyes were repaired at birth. (Return) | Pinkeye: In goats this disease is usually caused by Chlamydia or Mycoplasma and is not related to Moraxella bovis, which causes pinkeye in cattle. Moraxella has been cultured from goats eyes, but only rarely. most goats recover without any treatment, so be certain the treatment you choose does not cause any harm. If the eye looks like it is going to rupture, a conjunctivial or third eyelid flap should be used to protect the eyeball. (Return) |
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Soremouth - Contagious Ecthyma - Paraphoxvirus - ORF:
Scabby or granulomatous lesions that occur in the lips, around the gums and
incisors, or on the teats and vulva of mature goats are often the result of
the parapoxvirus. This disease does not have near the significance as
it did when screwworm maggots were sure to be a secondary problem. The
vaccine is a live virus, so be certain that you have the disease on yr
premises prior to vaccination. Please remember that humans can get
this disease, so do not treat these local lesions without wearing gloves or
vaccinating yourself first. Almost all lesions will regress in three
to four weeks with or without treatment. (Return)
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Polioencephalomalacia: This is actually a nutritional disease that causes a softening of the brain. Thiamine or Vitamin B1 is produced by the rumen microflora. Alteration of the rumen bugs or ingestion of substances that contain the enzyme thiaminase can quickly produce the disease. Goats begin by appearing depressed, star gazing or acting blind, and progress to recumbency and convulsions. I try to remember to treat every sick goat and every goat that is off feed with thiamine. The disease is treated with thiamine hydrochloride at a dose of 5mg per pound every six to eight hours until symptoms subside. I will also give a single dose of 1-2 ml of Dexamethasone unless I am dealing with a pregnant doe. The recovery can be remarkable. (Return) |
| Tetanus: Tetanus is a highly fatal disease that occurs when a spore of Clostridium tetani enters a wound and sets up an infection from which a potent neurotoxin produces extensor rigidity that begins with signs of stiffness and progresses to recumbancy with full tetanic spasms. Tetanus can only be treated in the very early stages of the disease, so prevention is very important. It is best to vaccinate for tetanus with a toxoid two weeks prior to any elective surgeries and then give a booster at the time of surgery. If vaccination is not possible, the use of tetanus antitoxin at 500-750 units should provide protection for 10-20 days. Antitoxin and toxoid can be given at the same time without any interference. Tetanus can result from any of the following wounds: →→→→→→→ |
Castration
(especially with rubber bands) Dehorning or disbudding Parturition or obstetrical procedures Tattooing Hoof Trimming Puncture wounds Dog bites |
| Listerosis: This disease is a bacterial encephalitis that occurs in goats and many other mammals. Goats present with a transient elevation in temperature, circling, facial paralysis, hemiparesis and death. Early detection and treatment can be effective. Antibioticfs that have high brain concentrations and low doses of dexamethosone should be given. This disease can also cause abortions or septicemia. (Return) | Caprine Arthritis and Encephalitis: This is not an important disease in my practice, but may be very important to some of you. Most transmission of the disease takes place as a kid consumes the colostrum of an infected doe. The primary manifestation of the disease is a proliferative arthritis in one or all joints. The neurological form usually occurs in kids 2-6 months of age. The arthritic form usually occurs in goats during the first year of age. There is no treatment and all infected goats should be culled. (Return) |
| Foot and Mouth Disease: Any disease that produces blisters or ulcers in or around the mouth or coronary bands of the feet should be reported immediately. (Not to be confused with the scabs or lesions associated with Soremouth.) (Return) | Rabies: Always make rabies a part of your differential diagnosis. Every goat that I have diagnosed with rabies had the excited form, but I am sure the dumb rabies in young kids is also seen. (Return) |
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Dermatophytosis (Ringworm):
Ringworm is a major problem in show goats that are shorn and
shown in summer jackpot shows. The skin has micro-abrasions from the
clipper, the goat is stressed and many times soaps and sprays alter the
normal skin flora. This disease has been treated with everything from
bleach to the atomic bomb. Things to remember about treatment include
the following:
→→→→→→ Ringworm can be treated with topicals, injectables or oral preparations. None will give instant cures. (Return) |
☻Treat the premises ☻Treatments which damage adjacent healthy skin may allow the fungus to spread. ☻Even after the lesions are free from fungus, hair growth will take at least two to three weeks. ☻Disinfect clippers, brushes, blankets and sweaters regularly. ☻Sometimes ringworm is mistaken for Dermatophilus, which is a bacterial infection of the skin. (Return)
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| Lice: Goats have both biting and sucking lice. Many sprays are effective but resistance can occur to any of them. It is best twice 10-14 days apart to remove young lice before they mature. Treating for lice can save a lot of money on fences. Goats that are itching can certainly wear a fence out by rubbing on it. Ivermectin products are effective against sucking lice but not against biting lice. (Return) | Internal Parasites: Goats in my practice area seldom have a significant problem with helminthiasis. But, I know there are places where this is public enemy No. 1. In my area strategic deworming is a very valuable tool in sheep and would also be effective in your goat herds. Fecal exams are a must for determining the sucess or failure of any deworming program. (Return) |
| Coccidiosis: It still amazes me how often I can look at a fecal sample from a kid and find large numbers of oocysts. This should always be part of your diagnostic work up when young goats have diarrhea. To prevent this disease, feed a coccidio stat, feed kids in clean troughs that are off the ground and fixed so the kids cannot stand in them, and be careful to move hay feeding grounds frequently. My favorite treatment is sulfadimethoxine orally for 3-5 days. (Return) | Caseous Lymphadenitis or Cornybacterium Psuedotuberculosis: This organism enters the body through cuts in the skin or abrasions in the mucous membranes of the mouth and sets up house in a regional lymph node. If you no not have this disease, try to keep from getting it by isolating new goats for 30 days and treating any abscesses before they rupture. If the disease is already present in your herd, continue to treat abscesses, cull infected goats and vaccinate with a commercial or an autogenous vaccine. Vaccination for Caseous Lymphadenitis will do a better job of preventing abscesses in young goats than preventing new abscesses in chronically infected goats. (Return) |
| Enterotoxemia - Overeating: Clostridial bacteria are normal inhabitants of the intestinal tract. When a digestive disturbance occurs the normal bacterial flora is altered allowing the Clostridial spp. to proliferate rapidly. The rapid growth allows the production of a toxin that causes enterocolitis, neurotoxicosis, shock and death. Vaccinate kids once a month from the time they are 1 month old until they are 5-6 months old. Be sure to use a vivalent C&D vaccine. Goats usually get diarrhea with this disease which makes them different from sheep and cattle. Recoveries are rare, but affected goats can be treated with Clostridium antitoxin, pencillin and flunixen. (Return) | Acidosis: In my practice, this is a common occurrence from access to too much corn. When goats eat high concentrate rations, not only do the starches produce more acid, but the lack of roughage causes a decreased amount of saliva. Saliva contains wonderful buffering abilities. Thus, decreased chewing produces decreased saliva production, enhancing the likelihood of acidosis. Acidosis not only burns the rumen papillae, it also destroys the normal rumen bacteria. Rumen motility and the microbial digestion both shut down. Early treatment might be successful. Allow the animal to drink lots of water, use antacid preparations like milk of magnesia, oral tetracycline to prevent bacterial overgrowth, probiocin or rumen contents from a healthy ruminant and thiamine or B-complex vitamins. (Return) |
| Floppy Kid Syndrome: This is a sudden development of profound muscular weakness in kids that are usually 3-10 days old. This may be evidenced by ataxia or paralysis. These kids can swallow but cannot use their tongues. The condition may be confused with abomasal bloat, septicemia or enterotoxemia. These kids have a metabolic acidosis. Treat these kids with baking soda at the rate of about 3/4 teaspoon for a 10 pound kid. Mix it with water and administer it by stomach tube. Rapid recovery can occur as well as rapid relapse. (Return) | Paratuberculosis - Johnnes Disease: The cases of Johnnes that I have seen in goats came from embryos that were kidded in Canada, probably in old dairy barns. Most transmissions takes place from kids nursing fecal contaminated teats. Clinical signs of chronic weight loss with or without diarrhea may not be seen for two to three years. There is no treatment. (Return) |
| Ketosis - Pregnancy Disease: Ketosis is a very common problem in overweight, confined Boer goats that are carrying twins or triplets. The nutritional demands of the kids is so great during the last two to four weeks of pregnancy that the doe is forced to use her own fat reserves for energy. Does that have lot of omental fat plus multiple kids in their abdomen barely have enough room left for a rumen. As the fat is utilized for energy, ketones are produced which makes the doe sick and magnifies her problems so that it becomes a viscious cycle. Unless early intervention takes place, disaster is on the horizon. The first symptom I see is swelling of the legs and loss of muscle over the loin. As soon as I see these symptoms, I will separate her because she is already weak and will get whipped off the feed trough. If she still does not respond, I begin treating with liquid energy supplements that include B-complex vitamins. If the doe has a known breeding date and is within 10 - 14 days of kidding, I will induce labor with Predef-2X and prostaglandins. (Return) | Urolithiasis - Urinary Calculi: Many, many good goats have died from this disease. Preventing urinary stones should always be on the mind of every goat producer. Prevention can best be attained by acidifying the urine and increasing water consumption. I am convinced that 90 percent of urinary calculi in goats that are in a pen being fed concentrate is due to inadequate levels of urinary acidifiers or elevated phosphorus and magnesium in the diet. Ammonium sulfate and ammonium chloride are the two urinary acidifying feed ingredients that are used. The calcium-to-phosphorus ration in the diet should be around 2:1. Increasing water consumption can be accomplished by adding salt (up to 4 percent of the ration) to the diet, cleaning water troughs, and giving heated water during winter months. Goats that have been held off water for a show should be drenched or offered water before heading home. I attempt treatment by doing one of the following: 1. Extend the penis and clip the urethral process. 2. Catheterize the penis and try to dislodge the stone formation. 3. Put in a tube cystotomy using a 12 french foley catheter placed in the bladder and draining out the abdomen. (Return) |
| Pneumonia: Most pneumonias in goats are dry with an intermittent cough. They can be caused by virus, Mycoplasma species. Chlamydia or Pasturella bacteria. If you notice even a mild cough with an elevated temperature or lethargy, it is time to treat. Goats can die of pneumonia without even coughing. I usually use oxytetracycline, Baytril or Nuflor along with a single dose of flunixen to treat for pneumonia. | Abortion: There can be many causes for an abortion outbreak in goats, but I only want to warn you about Q fever because it is a zoonotic disease. Many goat producers have contracted this disease from aborted fetuses, fetal membranes, or by ingesting milk or cheese from infected goats. The disease begins with fever and flu-like symptoms. |
(Return) to index
| Diagrams of Hoof Trimming | |
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| Caution....cut carefully. Clean hoof first. Never just cut off excess toe...you will cause the hoof to bleed profusely! Overgrown hooves (as in the first picture) must be cut back in stages with time elapsing in between trimming sessions. If you trim on a regular basis you will be able to keep hooves like the "Proper Trim" photo above right. Depending on growth rate and environment terrain, trimming should be done about every two months. | Cut the excess ridges on the walls. See picture below. After trimming the walls, trim the heels so that all is level. See "proper trim" picture above, right, and the picture below that shows the heel. If the hoof is extremely overgrown as in the first picture you cannot expect to get a proper trim in one session. |
| After trimming the walls, level the sole...see picture below. Watch for the pink color to appear on the surface as you trim down ...that means you are getting close to the quick where the blood vessels are. Stop before cutting into the quick. |
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If trimming is timely and all has gone well you will notice that the line where the hair stops "Coronary band" on top of the hoof will be parallel to the line made where the hoof meets the ground surface. |
| Trim the excess growth between the toes as shown in the last picture on the right. (The part that bulges towards the center.) This will help keep the toes together in a nice straight line. |
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| (Return) to index |
AMGA Breed Standard:
The breed standard for the meat goat is
primarily designed to enhance structural correctness of the breeding meat
goat, with an emphasis on muscle volume, function, and survivability of the
commercial animal.
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JUDGING POINT SYSTEM (MAC GOAT ROUGH SKETCH): To help you understand the overall value of the below standards, and which parts are more important than the others, I will attempt to explain our rough sketch point system we use in evaluating goats we are viewing. The The USBGA judging course I took was very valuable in helping us shape our rough sketch system. (I highly recommend taking a judging class from The USBGA if you get the opportunity.) You will learn to really see the "value" of the goat and focus in on the parts that are most important. You will note that the first two areas contain 50% of the value of the goat! These are the areas we look at first when evaluating that potential purchase. Add about another 25 points divided between the back and rump; and the legs, pasterns and feet; and another 10 points for the head and breed characteristics and you have about 85% of your goat! Add another 10 points for the front end assembly and you have close to 90% of your goat. The rest is size, condition, development and color. Color is pretty far down on the list in most organizations so try not to buy that pretty marked goat with the beautiful dark head and even blaze, over the one who has accumulated the points! Note: Learn the Disqualifying factors in each organizations standards.....and considers those disqualifications when viewing goats.
GENERAL APPEARANCE: "The Boer Goat should be deep bodied and feminine/masculine in appearance, showing great power and symmetry of form. A fine head, with round horns that are bent backward, a loose supple skin, strong bone, and a graceful, powerful walk. The doe should have a defined wedge shape when viewed from the side. Bucks appear heavier in the head, neck, and forequarters."
1. The greatest focus of points is the BODY CAPACITY (30 points out of 100). Which .."should be deep and wide throughout, providing ample digestive capacity, strength and vigor." The Body Capacity includes two parts...the Heart Girth (15 points) which should be large, "resulting from long, well sprung foreribs, wide muscular chest floor between the front legs, with fullness at the point of the elbow" ....and the Barrel (15 points) which should be "uniformly deep, wide and strongly supported front to rear, with wellsprung ribs which are wide, flat and widely spaced."
2. The next highest focus of points is the BACK & RUMP (14 points Jr.Doe; 12 points all others). "The back should be broad and strong with an even covering of smooth, firm flesh. Topline should be strong, straight and nearly level. The loin should be long and wide. The flanks should be deep and full. The rump should be long, broad and slightly sloping with a smooth, even covering of firm flesh. Hips wide apart and level with the back. Pins wide apart and lower than the hips. The tail head slightly above and neatly set between the pin bones."
3. Equal to the Back and Rump in value is the LEGS, PASTERNS AND FEET (14 points Jr. Doe; 12 points all others). "Hind legs must demonstrate muscular depth and thickness into the pelvic floor as befits the ultimate meat goat. Hind legs should be medium in length, set wide apart and nearly straight when viewed from the rear; nearly perpendicular from hock to pastern when viewed from the side. Forelegs should be of medium length, wide apart, squarely set, straight and strong. Bones should be clean and strong, and of adequate density to support weight. Feet are to be sound, short, wide and straight with a deep heel, level sole and closed toes. Front and rear hooves should be black. Strong pasterns are a must."
4. The next highest points are found in the REPRODUCTIVE ORGANS. Testicles: (10 points) "Bucks must have two firm, fully descended testicles of equal size. Testicles may not have a split of more than 1 inch on a mature buck" (ABGA allows 2 inches). Teats: (Does 12 points, Bucks 10 points). "Teats must be well defined and properly placed. A maximum of two functional teats on each side, with a definite separation between teats." To be functional it must have an offerice. Udder: (8 points for Sr.Does only) "On does, the udder should be long and wide, extending well forward and showing adequate capacity without exaggerated size. They should be tightly attached without a pocket in the front, blending smoothly into the body. The udder halves should be evenly divided and symmetrical with strong medial suspensory ligament. They should be pliable and elastic, free of scar tissue, and well collapsed when empty or dry."
5. The next highest point area is the HEAD AND BREED CHARACTERISTICS (10 points). "A Boer goat should have a strong head with a convex profile, Roman nose and pendulous ears. The head must be medium in length, with a wide forehead and feminine/masculine in appearance. The jaw must be strong, even and correctly aligned with the bite neither under nor over shot. Eyes clear and bright. The neck should be proportional to the body size and thick at the base, blending smoothly into the shoulders and brisket; symmetrical and well carried".
6. The FRONT END ASSEMBLY (10 points Jr. Doe, 8 points all others) is the next most important area. "The shoulders should be strong and wide, and well muscled with an even covering of firm flesh. Shoulder blades should be set smoothly against the chest wall and withers. The withers should be slightly rounded and barely defined with even flesh covering, blending smoothly into the area of the spine. The brisket is broad, deep, muscular and firm".
7. The second to last area when it comes to points is the SIZE, CONDITION AND DEVELOPMENT (6 points for Jr. Doe, 4 points for all others). "According to age, preference is given to animals showing superior growth and muscle development. Boers should be well muscled with a smooth, even covering of firm flesh. Hair and coat should be healthy, skin should be loose and pliable. Winter down will be tolerated in winter months."
8. Last area is COLOR (4 points). "The ideal is a white goat with a red head and ears, with all bare skin fully pigmented. The head my be totally red, or with a white blaze or spot. The red may be any shade from light to dark red, including orange, brown, or reddish black. The minimum color requirement is a patch of red covering at least 40% on both sides of the head excluding the ears; with the minimum requirement for the ears being 50% red ( as long as there is at least 75% overall pigmentation of the head area.) 20% red spotting or coloration on the body is acceptable. Solid body colors, other than white, will not be discriminated against so long as the solid color is a shade of tan, brown, or red and covers at least 80% of the body and head."........
| .TO RETURN TO EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL INDEX CLICK ON (Return)........................................................... |
THE SOUTH AFRICAN BOER GOAT STANDARD (ABGA,
USBGA,
AND
IBGA-International
COMPARED
TOGETHER--PART BY PART):
The below
comparison of
ABGA ,
IBGA, and
USBGA standards
were compiled by this Editor as a tool in
order to see the
differences between the three. Where meaning was the same in some
cases the wording was made similar. I also grouped and changed
the names on some categories as long as they were referencing the
same thing. Get your own copies of each standard for total
understanding of each from the above referenced links to the association. (Return).
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OVERALL QUALITY, SIZE, APPEARANCE AND TYPE (General Appearance)-ABGA: The overall objective is for a goat to have suitable size with maximum meat yields, good structural conformation which meets environmental and production requirements, high adaptability to environmental conditions and high fertility. Ideally, this is an animal with short glossy hair with fine luster. The major portion of the body should be white with dark coloration around the head and pigmented skin in hairless areas around the head and under the tail to reduce sunburn, cancers, and skin diseases. A loose, supple skin helps the animal adapt to wide climatic conditions, and possibly provides resistance to external parasites. In general appearance, a Boer Goat has a dark head and horns which curve backwards. Animals should be strong, vigorous, and symmetrical, with well balanced muscling. Bucks should be masculine and well proportioned, but not overly developed in the head, neck and forequarter, making it out of proportion with the rest of the body. Does should be feminine, yet strong, and have a slightly more angular chest than bucks. They should be able to breed easily and have the conformation and constitution to easily raise fast growing kids. Overall, the ideal is rapidly growing, well proportioned goat of suitable size with the ability to maximally produce prime cuts of meat to meet consumer demands. A desirable relationship between the length of leg and depth of body should be achieved at all ages with kids and young goats being slightly longer in the leg. GENERAL APPEARANCE - IBGA-International: None listed. However, here would be a good place to define the terms "serious defects" and "very serious defects" as used by IBGA. "The severity of a fault is based on the extent to which it would jeopardize the three most important functions of the Boer goat: to produce meat, to be pasture-hardy, and to produce offspring. "Very serious defects" interfere with the goats being able to carry a suitable amount of meat on its body, walk well, eat efficiently or rear healthy offspring, therefore making that goat unsuitable for showing or breeding. The editors interpretation of "very serious fault" is that it is a disqualification...."unsuitable for showing or breeding"...as stated above. GENERAL APPEARANCE - USBGA: The Boer goat is a meat animal and as such the general appearance should give an impression of size and strenth. The bucks should be substantially larger than does with a broad chest, a strong back and smooth muscled rump. Their head should be broad with a convex nose and horns that curve back. Does should also appear broad with a firm stance, meaty chest and strong rump and thights; but with a more feminine appearance. The overall appearance should be that of a strong, well built meat producer.
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HEAD - ABGA: A prominent, strong HEAD with brown EYES, a gentle appearance. NOSE with a gentle curve, wide NOSTRILS, well formed MOUTH with well-opposed JAWS. Jaws must have no over or under bite from birth to 24 months. 1/4 inch under bite is allowed after 24 months. Correct fit is preferred. TEETH should erupt in the proper sequential positions. FOREHEAD should be prominent and form an even curve linking the nose and horns. HORNS should be dark, round, strong, moderate length, positioned well apart and have a gradual backward curve before turning outward symmetrically. EARS should be smooth of medium length and hang downward. HEAD - IBGA-International: Should have a strong HEAD, large brown gentle EYES, Roman nose and protruding forehead which makes a curving profile from the nostrils through the horns. Viewed while facing the goat, the head is elongated triangle with a bottom point that is blunt and moderately wide. It is not long and narrow as are the heads of some other breeds of goats. Bottom JAW should be strong and deep. NOSTRIL openings should be wide and set well apart. HORNS should be strong, round, set wide apart with a gradual backward curve. Horns should be set so that it may move its head freely. TEETH of goats over three months old must touch the upper pad, except that the mouth of a goat over two years old may have a 1/4 inch gap between the teeth and the upper pad. Nursing kids under three months old must have the base of their teeth lined up with the pad. This provision allows for the tendency of kid's teeth to slant slightly forward during the period of time he is nursing. Teeth should be rooted in the correct place along the lower jaw.....that is to say that permanent teeth should appear in correct sequence so that each pair is contiguous to the previous pair, not spaced out so that a baby tooth is present between two permanent teeth. The lower JAW should not be shallow but should be of sufficient depth to be strong and should not come to a point but should be broad across the end. EARS should be wide and pendulous, long enough to hang below the bottom line of the lower jaw. A buck should have a larger, broader head than a doe, and his horns should be bigger around and longer. Often he has wrinkles in the skin across the nose. COLOR: The head may be completely red or have a white blaze in the face. As a minimum, the head should have enough color to surround the eyes and cover 50% of the head. The ears should ideally be 90% colored, but 50% coloring is acceptable if the skin under the white hair is pigmented. The color of the hair may vary from light to dark red. HEAD - USBGA: Appearance: strong. Eyes: brown. Nose/forehead: Should have a smooth and continuous convex curve from the nose to the apex of the horn. Horns: should be round, darkly colored, moderately to widely spaced. (Does may have their horns removed). Ears: are to be flat, hung smoothly along the side of the face, avoiding the eyes. The bottom tip may be folded. Jaws: should not be pointed, pinched, undershot or overshot, must fit well together. Both ears should have at least 75% red coloring to be ideal, 50% is acceptable if at least 75% of head area is colored. The red on face should be at least 40% on both sides of the head, excluding the ears. A totally red head, or a red head with a white blaze or white spot is ideal. Red may range in shade from light to dark red, although orange, brown or reddish black will be accepted. FAULTS/HEAD: (ABGA): Faults: concave forehead, straight horns, jaw too pointed, overshot or undershot jaws.. Disqualifications: Blue eyes, ears folded lengthwise, short ears, parrot mouth or more than 1/4 of an inch under bite. (IBGA-International): Serious defects: Horns that are too straight, horns that rub into the skin, a lower jaw that is so shallow it makes the goat's profile look pointed, ears that are too short, ears that protrude stiffly. Very serious defects: Concave forehead, blue eyes, undershot jaw, overshot jaw, hare lip, ears that twist at the base so that the ear hangs folded for its entire length. (USBGA)- Slight to Serious Defects: horns too straight or too flat or too close together, pointed jaw or pinched jaw, stiff protruding ears or ears too short, lacking head color, folded ear when ear canal is not closed (uterine molding). Very Serious Defects: Concave forehead; folded ear when ear canal is involved and partially closed (inherited); overshot or undershot jaw. Disqualifications: Blue eyes; crooked face.
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NECK & FOREQUARTERS-ABGA: Moderate length NECK in proportion with body length. FOREQUARTERS full, well-fleshed, LIMBS well jointed and smoothly blended. CHEST broad. SHOULDERS fleshy and well proportioned with rest of body, smoothly blending and fitted into the withers. WITHERS should be broad and well rounded, not sharp. LEGS should be strong, well placed and in proportion with the depth of the body. PASTERN joints should be strong and HOOVES well formed and as dark as possible. NECK & FOREQUARTERS - IBGA-International: NECK should connect at the top of the withers. Neck should be moderately long in relation to the length of the body. Bucks should have a masculine, heavily muscled neck. Does should have a neck which is refined and feminine. CHEST should be broad and deep without excessive flesh or excessive skin in the brisket. (Packers in US consider excessive skin and flesh in that area a waste.) The breast bone should not protrude to make a sharp edge in front of the vertical line made by the forelegs, but should give the appearance of being flat across. SHOULDERS must fit snugly against the body leaving the withers broad and well-rounded. The shoulder blades should not be visible above the line of the withers when the goat is standing with his head up. When he walks with his head up, the shoulder blades should not move out from the body or move up too much above the line of the withers. FORELEGS should be straight, strong and of moderate length in proportion to the body. Bucks should have a masculine foreleg with a heavier bone than that of a doe. They should be set out at the corners of the goat's body and go straight down to the ground, so that the body is carried between the legs, not on top of the legs. FOREARM should be well-muscled. PASTERNS must be strong and short. Age weakens pasterns, and hauling can cause a temporary flexibility of the pastern as can excessive weight, such as that of a heavy pregnancy. Poorly trimmed hooves can make the pastern appear faulty. In determining breeding values of a goat the producer can consider that the pastern weakness is temporary; the judge of a show, however, must appraise the goat by its appearance on the day of the show. HOOFS must be dark and well-shaped. NECK & FOREQUARTERS - USBGA: In bucks the NECK should be well fleshed and of moderate length in proportion to the length of the body. Does should have a more feminine extension of the neck. The BREASTBONE should be wide and deep into the brisket. The SHOULDERS should be wide and smooth across the top to demonstrate volume and rest flush against the withers. The FRONT END assembly should be of sufficient height to be slightly elevated over the back. FRONT LEGS should be straight and long enough to give sufficient height to front end assembly. Front legs should be placed in correct proportion to the front end, and directly under the withers. Front pastern should be short and straight. A good balance between bone refinement and strength is essential. Hooves should be black. Feet should be strong with tight toes pointed directly forward with deep heels and the sole nearly uniform in depth from heal to toe. animal should track with sufficient width between legs both fore and rear. FAULTS/NECK & FOREQUARTERS: (ABGA): Neck too long, too thick; Shoulders too loose; Any deformities or abnormalities in foreleg structure, muscle, bone, joint, or hoof.... to include but not limited to knock knees, bandy legs, hooves pointing outward or inward, splay toes, buck knees, hollow legs, straight or weak pasterns.. (IBGA-International): Serious Defects: Neck too thin, too long, too short or set wrong, shoulders too loose, pasterns too long or too flexible, fine-boned legs, bowed legs, "knock knees", narrow chest, toes on the same foot that do not both point forward. Very Serious Defects: Extremely bowed legs or "knock knees", extremely deformed feet. (USBGA) - Slight to Serious Defects: Loose, winged, or slightly open shoulders. Narrow chest or pinched heart girth. Neck too narrow or short in correlation with the body mass. U neck in bucks or does. Knees too close; Enlarged knees; Legs too fleshy or too thin; Weak pasterns. Very Serious Defects: Severely open or loose shoulders. Protruding breastbone. Turned out or crooked feet; Sprung pasterns; Bowed over knees; A too long shank.
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BODY (BARREL) & HINDQUARTERS - ABGA: BODY should be boldly three-dimensional: long, deep and wide. RIBS should be well sprung. LOIN should be well muscled, wide and long. The TOP LINE should be reasonably straight and strong and the SHOULDER well rounded with an abundance of muscle from shoulder through hip. RUMP should be broad and long with a gentle slope. BRITCH and THIGHS well muscled and rounded. Base of the TAIL must be centered and straight. The remainder of the tail can curve upward or to one side. LEGS should be strong and the leg should have a straight axis from the hip (pin bones) through the hock, fetlock, and pastern. HOOFS should be well-formed and as dark as possible. BODY (BARREL) & HINDQUARTERS - IBGA-International: BODY(BARREL) should be deep, long and wide with good spring of rib, rounded on the sides like a barrel, not flat like a box. It is important that the body should not be pinched in just behind the shoulders. This is where the long back muscle begins, and that muscle should be full at the point of attachment as well as along the rest of the back. It is important that this backbone structure be wide as well as long and well covered with muscle. The top line should be straight from the shoulder to the point of the hip, although a slight dip can be tolerated. The back should be strong and not show signs of sagging in the middle. The distance between the last rib and the front edge of the hip bone should be long; this is where the length of the loin is measured. HINDQUARTERS: RUMP...the slope of the rump which begins on the top line at the point of the hips and goes to the tail should not be steep, and the distance between those two points should be long. When looked at from the side the hind leg should be full and well-rounded extending all the way to the hock. Viewed from the back the rump should be wide and full and deep. Beginning from the hairless area around the tail and extending to the point at which the legs split apart is the "twist". A bucks twist should be long and the rump in that area should be wide and heavily muscled. It is a plus if a doe also has some depth to her twist. The doe will carry more femininity in her muscling then the buck. SHANK: the shank of the hind leg should be muscled on both the outside and inside of the leg bone. A Boer goat should have good width between the hocks, and the hocks should point straight back, not in, or out. HIND LEG: should have a slight angle and not be entirely straight up and down from the hip through the hock and the pastern. That angle should not be too acute, however. PASTERNS must be short and strong. When the animal walks the feet should move straight ahead. TAIL should come straight out from the dock and not be carried to one side or the other. The hairless skin around the anal area ideally should be 100% pigmented, but it must be at least 75% pigmented. In kids under 4 months old 50% pigmentation is acceptable. Pigmentation is present if that skin area is any shade of color from light tan to black. Lack of pigmentation causes the skin in that area to be pink. The purpose of this requirement is to prevent cancer of the skin from sun damage. BODY(BARREL) & HINDQUARTERS: - USBGA: BODY: no statement. RIBS: no statement. LOINS: wide, long, well covered. TOPLINE: Back should be broad and long.. Slight dip behind withers is permissible to allow rotation. SHOULDERS: wide and smooth across top to demonstrate volume and should rest flush against the withers. RUMP: long, slightly level. HINDQUARTERS should have good extension to fully fleshed THIGHS. Thighs should be round, well muscled, and extend far down the back leg. PIN BONES should be wide and well placed. TAIL: must be straight where it grows out of the dock and swing to either side. LEGS: Back legs should be set wide apart and straight when viewed from the rear with clean hocks. Rear legs should be nearly perpendicular from hocks to pasterns viewed from the side. Rear pasterns should be short to medium length. Good balance between bone refinement and strength essential. Should track with sufficient width between legs both fore and rear. HOOFS: black, strong, tight toes, pointed forward, deep heels and sole nearly uniform in depth from heal to toe. Feet should be strong with tight toes pointed directly forward with deep heels and the sole nearly uniform in depth from heal to toe. FAULTS/BODY(BARREL & HINDQUARTERS: (ABGA): Faults: Neck too short or too thin; shoulders too loose, and any structural muscle, bone, joint, or hoof deformities or abnormalities, to include but not limited to bandy legs, hooves pointing outward or inward, splay toes, hollow legs. Concave or swayback; chest too narrow or shallow or flat; shoulders weakly attached; inadequate muscle through the back and loin, pinched heart girth. Weak or straight pasterns, rump too steep, sicle-hocked, cow-hocked, post legs. Disqualifications: Wry tail. (IBGA-International): Serious Defects: Narrow back, pinched-in heart girth, swayback, short loin, flat sides, shallow body. Hindquarters that come to a screwdriver point, steep rump, short hips, not enough muscling in the rump or hip, a hip muscle that fails to come down to the hock leaving a portion of the shank bare of meat, hocks that come together ("cow hocked") or bow apart (sickle hocked), weak pasterns, badly shaped feet or feet that point in or out. A hind leg which is too straight (post legged) or too sharply angled. A rayed tail (one that is carried to one side or the other). Very Serious Defects: Extreme swayback, extremely pinched-in heart girth, lack of a substantial long back muscle when the goat is in good condition. Extremely cow hocked or sickle hocked hind legs, extremely weak pasterns, extremely deformed feet, lack of sufficient meat on its hindquarters when the goat is in good condition. (USBGA): Slight to Serious Defects: Loin too narrow or short or lacking cover. Lacking length or covering throughout. Wry or broken tail. Pin bones too narrow; Legs too fleshy or too thin; weak pasterns. Very Serious Defects: Swayback; Steep rump; Flat hindquarters or rump; Hind legs too close together .
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SKIN AND COVERINGS-ABGA: SKIN loose and supple. PIGMENT: Eyelids and other hairless areas must be pigmented. Hairless areas under the tail should be at least 75% pigmented: 100% is preferred. HAIR: Short glossy hair is disireable. A limited amount of winter down or under-coat will be accepted during winter, especially in colder environments. SKIN AND COVERINGS-IBGA-International: The SKIN should be loose and supple because this is an indication of the goat's ability to grow. PIGMENT: Eyelids and hairless parts of the body should be 100% pigmented, but 75% is acceptable. For kids under 4 months old 50% pigmentation is acceptable. HAIR should be short. A soft fur-like cashmere which grows under and through the hair is acceptable in winter. If the goat has been in cold climates this cashmere may be more abundant. SKIN AND COVERINGS-USBGA: SKIN loose and supple with sufficient folds over the neck and chest, especially in bucks. Eyelids and hairless areas must be pigmented. Hairless skin under the tail should have 75% pigmentation for stud purposes with 100% ideal. HAIR: short glossy hair is desirable showing freedom from coarseness. Limited amount of winter down will be tolerated during winter months. FAULTS/SKIN AND COVERINGS: (ABGA) - Faults: Hair too long or too coarse. Disqualifications: Not enough skin pigmentation. Any extreme occurrence of an undesirable trait. (IBGA-International):..none listed. USBGA -Slight to Serious Defects: Skin too tight; Course hair texture; Hair too long; Tail with less than 50% pigmentation in does. Very Serious Defects: Tail with less than 50% pigmentation in bucks; Pink eyelids; Pink tail on does; Skin too lightly pigmented. Disqualifying Defects: Pink tail on bucks; Solid white buck or doe; Solid black, black & white, or black head on buck or doe.
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COLORATION-ABGA: The preferred Boer goat is an animal with red hair on the head and ears and white on the remainder of the body but other coloration's are acceptable. (Ennoblement program is more specific regarding acceptable colorations.) COLORATION-IBGA-International: COLOR: The head may be completely red or have a white blaze in the face. As a minimum, the head should have enough color to surround the eyes and cover 50% of the head. The ears should ideally be 90% colored, but 50% coloring is acceptable if the skin under the white hair is pigmented. The color of the hair may vary from light to dark red. COLORATION-USBGA: .The body should ideally be white, but 20% spotting or coloration is permitted. Solid colors, other than white and black, will not be discriminated against. Both ears should have at least 75% red coloring to be ideal, 50% is acceptable if at least 75% of head area is colored. The red on face should be at least 40% on both sides of the head, excluding the ears. A totally red head, or a red head with a white blaze or white spot is ideal. Red may range in shade from light to dark red, although orange, brown or reddish black will be accepted. FAULTS/COLORATION: (ABGA) - No faults or disqualifications listed. (IBGA-International): - No coloration defects mentioned. (USBGA) - Slight to Serious Defects: Lacking color on head. Disqualifying Defects: Solid white buck or doe; Solid black, black & white, or black head on buck or doe.
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REPRODUCTION ORGANS-ABGA: Does should have well formed udders with good attachment with the number of functional teats not to exceed two per side. A split teat with two distinctly separated teats and openings with at least 50% of the body of teat separated is permissible but teats without a split are preferred. It is most important that the udder is constructes so that the offspring are able to nurse unassisted. Does must have kidded or exhibited pregnancy by 24 months of age. Bucks must have two large well formed, functional, equal sized testes in a single scrotum with no more than a 2" split in the apex of the scrotum. REPRODUCTION ORGANS-IBGA-International: DOES--A doe should have a well-developed udder which is firmly attached, not hanging low with pendulous teats. Boer goats were developed to produce multiple kids. For this reason South African producers selectively bred them to have more than the two teats that other goats have in order to feed triplets and quadruplets. One or more functional teats on each side are acceptable. A split teat is acceptable if it is not joined for more than 50% of its length. BUCKS--A buck should have two well formed, approximately equal-sized testes in a single scrotum with a well developed epididymis at the bottom of each testicle and a clean cord connected to the apex of each testicle. A split of no more than 1 inch of the scrotum is acceptable. The size of the testes vary with age and season, but the circumference should be large enough to indicate fertility and libido. REPRODUCTION ORGANS-USBGA: The DOES should hve a well-formed mammary system. It should consist of good attachment and no more than two separated functional teats per side of udder. A functional teat has an orifice in it. Ideally, does hould have one teat per udder half. The BUCKS should have two large well-formed equal size testes in a single scrotum. The apex of the scrotum may hve a split no longer than 1 inch. Scrotal circumference varies with the age of the buck. The normal circumference is 10 inches on a yearling buck and 12 inches on a two year old buck. Teat structure on the male shoud consist of no more than two separated teats per side. Ideally, bucks should have one teat per side. FAULTS/REPRODUCTION ORGANS: (ABGA): Faults: Udder and teat abnormalities or defects to include but not limited to oversized or bulbous teats, pendulous udder. Disqualifications: Any extreme occurrence of an undesireable tait is a disqualification. Cluster teats, fishtail teats or a doe that has not kidded or exhibited signs of pregnancy by 24 months of age. Single Testicle, Testicles too small. Abnormal or diseased testes; more than 2 inch split in the scrotum. (IBGA-International): Serious defects: Does...a split teat joined for more than 50% of its length, a double teat which does not separate but has a double-wide end which is too large for the newborn kid to suckle, a cluster of teats too close together to be suckled successfully. Very serious defects: Bucks...Small or abnormal testes, a split in the scrotum of more than 1 inche, nodules on the cords connected to the testes. Most serious defects: Does...Any teat formation which would present a hazard to a newborn kids' survival. Bucks...One testicle or no testicles. (USBGA): Slight to Serious Defects: Testicles that twist while buck walks. Very Serious Defects: More than 2 teats per side on a doe. Small or abnormal testicles. Scrotal split more than 1 inch. Disqualifying Defects: More than 2 teats per side on a buck. Split teat with two distinctly separated milk ducts divided less than 75% on bucks or does. Bunched or cluster teats on bucks or does. |
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| Click here for a chart on clipping/trimming: ....SHOW TRIMMING CHART |
FITTING AND SHOWING YOUR BOER/PERCENTAGE GOAT: (Tips on showing, ring behavior, grooming Boer Goats and "Things" you need to take to the show. ) The following is taken from the Extension Goat Handbook. (Parenthesis/bold print indicate MAC GOAT comments.) (Return) to index
| FITTING AND SHOWING by: C. Short, Fort Collins, CO.. | |
| Getting Ready: There are many things that need to be done once you decide to enter a goat show. The better prepared that you are, the more you will enjoy the show. | |
| .....The first thing is to decide which of your animals to show. Be selective about the animals. Look for animals in your herd that are correct in conformation and in good condition, neither too fat nor too thin. Strong, healthy animals will be more competitive, better able to withstand the stress of travel and the show, and not be a source of health problems for other goats attending the show. | |
| .....Read the show rules, fill out the entry form completely, and send it to the specified person on time. If you have questions about the show, contact the show secretary. It is a good idea to keep a copy of your show entry so that you have a record of the animals entered and their classes. Check the health rules for the show and work with your veterinarian to make sure that you meet the rules. Take some time to review the parts of the goat and become familiar with the judges scorecard. The judge's placings and reasons at the show will be more meaningful if you are aware of the point differences defined by the scorecard. | |
| Fitting: Goat shows are far more relaxed if your animals are groomed and ready to go when you get to the show. Otherwise, you may end up rushing at the show stables trying to get your animals clipped and their feet trimmed with probably hasty results. There is always some last minute bathing and grooming but it helps if the time consuming portions of the job have been done at home. (If the weather is real bad you may want to consider not soaking them with cold water at the show before their entry....just sponge bath them.) Hooves should be trimmed a few days before the show....bathe...goats with a mild shampoo...and rinse well...to remove loose hair and dandruff. (Be sure your goat does not have lice, treat to get rid of them if present.) (...Please note: Animals being shown in a Meat or Boer Goat Show are expected to have all their hair! It is not considered good form to shave a meat animal before a show like they do the dairy goats. Prize winning animals have actually lost their Champion place in the ring because they were naked! The Rule of Thumb for a Meat and/or Boer Show is: Present them washed, brushed and clean. Trim their hooves before they go on to the fair grounds. The areas between the hocks and the dew claws, the top of the hoof, and the tail may be trimmed up to appear neater, as can other "wild hair" areas, if needed. | |
| .....Practicing with your goats at home can result in better behaving animals in the ring and increased confidence on your part. Animals should be accustomed to being handled by strangers, especially having someone else's hand move over their necks, withers, back and sides, and udder (scrotum) so that they will stand still when being examined by the judge. (However, don't be afraid to go to a show because your goat will not stand still.....many have before you....these are meat goats, not pampered show goats) ....Chain collars are usually preferred for showing, although narrow leather collars are also used. (For those unruly animals and big bucks you would be well advised to use the pronged dog collars that you can buy in a pet store...you can also purchase extra links.) Collars should fit correctly, so that you can control your animal's movements in the ring. It is ideal to work with your animals ahead of time until they lead readily and respond quickly to signals. They should move forward with a slight pull on the collar and stop when you pull lightly up and back. Getting your animals used to wearing a collar and teaching them to lead and be tolerant of strangers is important with young stock, because they can often be stubborn about learning show manners. (Again, don't not enter a show just because your meat goat does not lead just right. He will have a tendency to follow the others....and I have seen exhibitors have to drag their animals a bit....we are not talking Junior Showmanship here!) | |
| ......(Be sure your animals are properly registered with either The IBGA or ABGA if they are entering as percentages or fullbloods in the Boer division.....if they are entering the meat goat division, they do not have to be registered. ..Check those tattoos before leaving your home. Be sure your ear tattoos are readable. Be sure their tattoos match those on the registration papers. Be sure you have gotten those ownership papers transferred to your name if you want the credit for the win. I will be writing an article on the scoring of the animals soon.) | |
| .....What to take to the Show: The first, and most important, items to take to the show are, of course, your animals. Goats are easily transported, but common sense should be followed. Goats need to be protected from inclement weather and, unless there is much available space, young animals will travel better if they are separated from adults. Don't forget the registration and health papers; they are required before you can participate in the show. (You need to check to see what health papers are required if you are coming from out of state....or if their are special rules of the show.) A tack box, especially one that locks, is a convenient way to carry the many small items that are needed at the show. You can make a checklist of items or follow the suggested lists below. | |
| Feed and Bedding: Some shows will have a supply of hay and straw for sale. Check ahead of time to see whether such will be available before you decide to bring your own. some exhibitors prefer their own hay, so that their animals will not have a change in diet. You need:...hay....straw....grain...hay feeders....grain feeders....water buckets.....bottles and nipples if you are taking (bottle fed) kids....salt or trace minerals. | |
| Equipment: After you have attended a few shows, you will know what equipment is useful, including:... clippers (for last minute touchups....remember, you do not have to clip the Boer or percentages).....hoof trimmers ....extra collars....tie ropes....livestock shampoo....short hose for bathing....hair blow drier....wash bucket ....towels to dry animals.....clean cloths for last cleanups....brushes....paper towels....first aid items, antibiotics, disinfectants, bandages, fly spray....herd signs for above your pens ....pitchfork ....rake ....broom ....pliers ....hammer and nails....scissors....staple gun....extension cord. | |
| Personal items: Many exhibitors prefer to spend the night in the barn with their animals. Personal items that may be needed include:.....cot....sleeping bag.....pillows.....folding chair....clean clothes....show clothes ....toilet articles....flashlight....snacks and food....equipment for cooking. | |
| What to do at the Show: Goats should be unloaded and settled into pens with bedding, feed, and water as soon as they arrive at the show, especially if they have been traveling very far or the weather is unpleasant. Once your animals are bedded down, you can take your registration and health papers and check in with the show secretary; unless the show rules require health checks before unloading. There are usually copies of the show program available that contain the schedule of classes and special instructions. Your goats have to be checked prior to the start of the show by the show veterinarian. He has the authority of dismissing animals from the show if they are sick or appear to be potential health problems for other exhibitor's animals. Extra space should be adjacent to your animals for your equipment and feed. Exhibitors are responsible for care of their animals throughout the show, including clean bedding, feed, and fresh water, as needed. It usually takes goats a while to settle down into the show routine, especially if they have not been shown before. Walking your goats around the ring before the show starts, helps them feel more relaxed when it is time for their class. Your goats may need to be bathed at the show prior to their classes, even if they were bathed earlier at home. Bathing should be done during the warm part of the day, followed by a through drying, to prevent added stress from chilling. If the weather is cold or unpleasant, goats can be brushed and spot cleaned with a damp rag, instead of bathing. Most goats will benefit from a final touch up cleaning with a damp cloth just prior to being shown. This is a good time to double check areas that are hard to keep clean, such as hooves, inside the ears, around the eyes and nose, and under the tail. | |
| Guidelines: Although every show is different, the following will make shows more enjoyable and worthwhile:--- -Cooperate with the show officials to the best of your ability..........Learn the rules of the show and follow them......Keep your pens and animals neat and clean at all times.....Be prepared and willing to answer questions from show visitors about your goats and goats in general......Handle your goats with dignity, pride, and gentleness, both inside the show ring and outside. Stay calm with troublesome animals; abusiveness is uncalled for.......Be courteous to the other exhibitors and the judge......Restrict conversation in the ring except to respond to the judge or show officials.......Be gracious about accepting the judge's opinion. (No matter how we really feel!).......Show your animals the whole time you are in the ring, until the judge has given his reasons and the class has been dismissed........If you have questions about the judging, wait until after the show is over to talk to the judge........Smile and enjoy yourself - it's part of showmanship.......Remember that placings at a show are one judge's opinion of how a certain group of animals compare with each other on a certain day. Placings of the same animals can be quite different under a different judge or at a different time, especially with nonmilking stock. | |
| In The Ring: Exhibitors should wear appropriate clothes to show their animals, such as clean jeans or slacks and a nice crisp shirt or blouse. Goats should be brought to the ringside a few minutes before start of their class, so that you are ready to enter the ring as soon as the class is called. You will need to know the birth date of each of your animals in the ring....the judge could ask you for this information. Watching the class ahead of yours will give you an idea of the judge's procedure and preferred method of lining up animals. When it is your turn to enter the ring, lead slowly and gracefully in a clockwise direction. Leave about 3 feet between your goat and that of other exhibitors when walking around the ring; and about 2 feet between animals when lined up head to tail or side by side. Please don't crowd other exhibitors and detract from the judges view. Stay attentive to the judge but, at the same time, be aware of your goat and what it is doing. Keep your goat between you and the judge at all times. If you need to change sides, move around the goat's head and change hands on the collar. Keep the collar high on the goat's neck, holding it in your hand at the top of the neck, just behind the ears. This gives you better control over the animals' movements and keeps her head up high enough so that it has an attractive carriage. After the goats have walked around the ring a few times, the judge will ask the exhibitors to form a line with their animals, usually side by side. When you set your goat up in line, pose it with it's feet squarely under it's body and it's hind feet slightly spread. It is usually easiest to set up the hind feet first. You can move the back feet where you want them by pressing back on the opposite shoulder or by picking up the leg between the hock and pastern and setting it down in the desired position. Once you have your goat well placed, let it be. Keep your hands off your animals as much as possible when it is set up, so that you will not draw the judge's attention away from your animals to you. Talking quietly to your goat or lightly rubbing it's belly or side nearest you keeps it alert and contented. Some exhibitors prefer to squat beside their goat while they are waiting in line. However, do not kneel with your knees on the ground, and be sure to stand up when the judge approaches your animal. Be ready to restrain your goat if necessary while the judge examines it. This can be done in two ways: (1) put your knee in front of it's shoulder so it can't move forward; and (2) grasp a front leg between the knee and the pastern and flex the leg back against the chest. If the judge asks you to change places in the ring, lead your goat forward out of the line, up or down the line to the place indicated, and back through the line, making a U-turn to get back into position. Do not back your goat into a different position unless the distance is short. Watch the judge closely, and respond quickly when the judge indicates the placings in the final line up. Be aware of show procedures; first and second place winners in each class are usually expected to remain at ringside to compete for champion. In....sanctioned shows, the judge will check tattoos and the show secretary will check registration papers for all breed champions before they leave the ring. The secret of good showmanship is to control your animal in such a manner that the judge sees it at it's best but never notices you....animals that can be successfully groomed to look as good as possible for a show are those that are well fed and cared for, in good health, and generally of good type............. | |
| TO RETURN TO EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL INDEX CLICK ON (Return). |
| SELECTING THAT GOAT FOR A SHOW PROJECT..........Article One: (Picked up from Ranch and Rural Living, "The Showring" by Frank Craddock & Ross Shultz).(Return) to index.. | |
| ......."SELECTION : The selection of a goat for a project is one of the most important decisions...." "The type of goat you select at the beginning of the project will have a major influence on the results at the end of the project. However, one must remember that a winning goat is a combination of good selection, good nutritional management, proper grooming and outstanding showmanship" "When selecting young goats, one must be conscious of age and fat thickness. Young goats that are bloomy and fat always look good, while young goats that are thin do not look as good. Learn to look past fat and recognize muscle so that you can pick those goats that are genetically superior." "Anytime you purchase goats, it is important to know a little about the producer you are buying from. do not hesitate to ask questions about their goats' bloodlines and the age of the goats in question." "When selecting goats there are five major areas of emphasis that should be considered. They are structural correctness, muscle, volume and capacity, style and balance, and growth potential. | |
| ........STRUCTURAL CORRECTNESS: "Structural correctness refers to the skeletal system or bone structure of an animal. Goats should be up-headed, with the neck extending out of the top of the shoulders. Goats should travel and stand wide and straight on both their front and rear legs, and their legs should be placed squarely under the body. They should have a strong level top, and a long rump with a slight slope from their hooks to their pins. Goats should be heavy boned and be strong on their pasterns. Open shouldered, weak topped, weak pasterns, deep rumped goats should be avoided." | |
| .......MUSCLE: "Generally, goats that walk and stand wide are going to be heavier muscled. Goats should have a deep, heavily muscled leg and rump, with the widest part of the leg being the stifle area, when viewed from behind. They should have a broad, thick back and loin that is naturally firm and hard handling. Goats should be wide through their chest floor, with bold shoulders and a prominent forearm muscle. The chest and forearm of a goat are the best indicators of muscling in thin goats." | |
| ........VOLUME & CAPACITY: "Volume and capacity refers to the relationship of length of body with depth of body and width of body. Goats should be long bodied, with adequate depth and spring of rib. Try to avoid selecting goats that are short bodied, narrow based, and flat ribbed." | |
| ........STYLE & BALANCE: "Style and balance refers to the way all body parts blend together, how the shoulder blends into the rib cage, the rib cage to the loin to the rump, and how eye-appealing a goat is. When viewed from the side, a goat should be smooth shouldered, level topped, trim middled and straight legged. A goat that is balanced, pretty and holds his head up is the first one you notice when you walk in the pen." | |
| ........GROWTH POTENTIAL: "The ability of an animal to grow rapidly is very important. Generally, the larger framed goat, as indicated by a long head, neck, canon bone, and body, will grow faster, be larger and more competitive in the show ring." THE END...TO RETURN TO EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL INDEX CLICK ON (Return). | |
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| TATTOOING:ALPHA/YEAR: (DAIRY CANNOT USE: C,D,G,I,O,Q,U....... THE MEAT GOAT FOLKS MAY NOT EITHER---CHECK WITH YOUR REGISTRY. ALSO THE DAIRY ASSOCIATION IS ONE ALPHA LETTER AHEAD OF THE MEAT ASSOCIATIONS.) | |
| L=99, M=2000, N=01, P=02, R=03, S=04, T=05, V=06, W=07, X=08, Y=09, Z=10, A=2011, B=2012, C=2013....TO RETURN TO EDUCATIONAL MATERIAL INDEX CLICK ON (Return) | |
| GOATS URINARY PROBLEMS (Kristin Longhofer, DVM) (Return) to index.. | ||
| .....Urinary tract stones (calculi) are a relatively common, frustrating and potentially life-threatening health problem in all small ruminants, especially pygmy goats. Although stones form in both males and females, partial and complete obstructions occur almost exclusively in the male due to his long narrow urethra. Since testosterone increases the size of the male urethra, males castrated at an early age often have a smaller diameter urethra and, therefore, seem to be at an increased risk for developing urinary tract obstructions. | ||
| .....Signs of urinary tract obstruction can include loss of appetite, colic, frequent vocalization (pain), straining and poor or absent urine flow. A veterinarian should examine any male small ruminant with these signs. Failure to seek prompt medical attention can lead to considerable pain and suffering for the animal and, eventually to urinary bladder rupture and death. While some animals respond to medical treatment, most symptomatic animals need surgical treatment to relieve the obstruction, and recurrences are common. | ||
| .....Although there is no infallible way to prevent urinary calculi from forming, there are a number of things you can do to help improve the odds of keeping your small ruminant disease free. One very important preventive measure is to postpone castration until males are at least 6 months old. Many owners object to the "buck odor" that develops, but the odor will gradually disappear after castration. Also, when postponing castration, you must remember to separate the buck kids from does by 3 months of age to prevent unwanted pregnancies. | ||
| .....Other management strategies include avoiding pelleted feeds, and feeding good quality long stemmed grass hay. Try to keep alfalfa hay to a minimum once animals are mature. A small amount of grain in the diet is permissible and may help prevent the formation of some types of stones. Adding plain salt to the diet helps increase water intake, diluting the urine, and interrupting crystal formation. An easy way to do this is to dissolve plain table salt in water and use a spray bottle to spray the solution on hay just before feeding. Start with a small amount and gradually increase, but don't go overboard, and always be sure there is free access to fresh water. Ammonium chloride can also be added to the diet to decrease urinary pH, another method believed to decrease stone formation. The major disadvantages of ammonium chloride are the bitter taste and those dosages must be precise as overdosing can result in severe electrolyte disturbances in the body. | ||
| ......Finally, encourage water consumption by assuring your animals always have access to plenty of fresh clean water. If pastures are large, multiple watering sites are helpful. Try to keep water cool in summer by providing shade, and lukewarm in winter by using dark tank liners or water tank heaters. | ||
.....Since the
formation of urinary tract stones and resulting
obstructions are multifactorial processes, involving the
genetics of the affected animals, feeding practices and
environmental factors, following the above
recommendations can't absolutely guarantee your animals
will remain disease free. However, anyone who has had the
misfortune of dealing with this problem will tell you the
old proverb "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound
of cure" definitely applies here. (If you have
any questions or concerns, discuss them with your
veterinarian or a good agricultural university.)...
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