Confluence to Lake Clementine/Mountain Quarries RR Bridge Walk

A Natural and Historical Perspective

By JIM FERRIS, ASRACK Volunteer Chairman

 

The start of this 10k walk is only a few minutes drive down El Dorado Street (Hwy 49) to the confluence of the North Fork and Middle Fork of the American River below Auburn.

 

At the bottom of the canyon continue straight for 200 yards for convenient parking on either side of the road (or continue across the curved Old Foresthill Bridge and park on the right).

 

This easy hike within the Auburn State Recreation Area (ASRA) is largely on dirt roads and trail, much of it in the shade of conifers and oaks or in proximity of riparian flora and chaparral.

 

It is believed that native peoples lived in the area of the confluence as long as ten thousand years ago.  There were certainly Native Americans encamped in the vicinity for hundreds of years before the area was first visited by early explorers and before the gold miners scoured the canyons during the mid 1800s.  The Maidu Indians were soon displaced by 49ers seeking their fortunes from the streambeds and canyons of the North and Middle Forks of the American River.  Stage roads and bridges were constructed to facilitate travel between Sacramento, Auburn and Foresthill.  Remains of these routes are visible today.

 

Starting on the southeast side of the curved Old Foresthill Road Bridge (constructed in 1955), proceed downriver (west) past the confluence under the Route 49 Bridge and hence to the Mountain Quarries RR Bridge. This landmark, built in 1911 at a total cost of $300,000, was the longest concrete bridge in the world at the time it was completed.  The Mountain Quarries Company used this bridge and about seven miles of track and fourteen trestles between 1912 and 1942 to transport limestone from the El Dorado County side of the river to the Southern Pacific line in Auburn – a total distance of about seven miles.  This picturesque and sturdy structure has survived over 90 years while bridges upstream have been destroyed during severe flooding.

 

The Mountain Quarries Bridge or No Hands Bridge, as it is popularly referred to, serves as a crossing over the American River for pedestrians and equestrians. In the early days of the Tevis Cup (the 100-mile Tahoe to Auburn horse race) a rider is reputed to have said, “look no hands” in defiance of the concern sometimes expressed about the guard rail less bridge. The name has stuck. (It should be noted, there are adequate protective rails in place today.)

 

Between the start of your walk and the Mountain Quarries Bridge you may see the abutment remains of two bridges that preceded the current Route 49 Bridge.  The first was a cable design erected in 1865.  This was replaced in 1929 by a suspension bridge that in turn was replaced in 1948 by a steel girder structure.  This “modern” bridge was destroyed in 1964 by a flood of water resulting from the collapse of the incomplete Hell Hole Dam.  The current bridge has remained intact notwithstanding inundation in 1986 (when the Auburn Coffer Dam collapsed) and having the river rise close to its roadbed as recently as the winter of 1997.  There is a kiosk near the north side of the Old Foresthill Bridge – maintained by The Canyon Keepers -- with old photos, assembled by ASRA Ranger Mike Lynch, depicting several of the bridges described herein.

 

From the Old Foresthill Bridge the second loop of our walk proceeds along a gravel road parallel to the North Fork American river.  Within less than a couple hundred yards the foundations for what was known as the Steel Bridge (1911-1955) may be seen just off the road to the left and on the opposite riverbank.  About three quarters of a mile above the confluence you will walk beneath the Auburn-Foresthill Bridge 730-foot above the river, the highest in California and the third highest in the United States.  The 2,248 foot long structure was designed to span the reservoir that would have resulted had the Auburn Dam project not been discontinued in1976.  The bridge was opened in 1973 with much fanfare, including a ceremony at which both political parties were represented (with an elephant and a donkey).  This bridge has been seen in numerous movies and commercials and has been the site for many stunts -- both legal and illegal.

 

The Canyon Walk continues along a largely shaded roadway, which was part of the Auburn to Foresthill stage route in the 19th century.  Soon you will reach Clarks Pool, a deep and clear rock lined swimming hole, which has been popular for over a hundred years, and still delights summer bathers.  There is easy access to a sandy beach by a short side trail.  The temperature of the North Fork below Lake Clementine is surprisingly warm since the water from the sun warmed surface of the lake flows over the North Fork Dam.  By contrast, the Middle Fork American River is fed from the bottom of Ox Bow reservoir and is considerably colder.

 

About one mile upstream from the confluence and readily visible from the trail are rock abutments of a wooden covered toll bridge built in 1875 and used until 1911.  It is reported that in the 1870’s tolls ranged from 6-cents for a cow to 50-cents for a horseman and 1 dollar for a wagon and two horses.  A short ways beyond there is still evidence of bridge supports at a site where three different bridges existed between 1852 and 1875.

 

There are five distinct trails leading down to the North Fork American River from our route, the last descending to a deep pool beneath the North Fork Dam waterfall.  The dirt trail ends at the lower Clementine Reservoir access road, which we will follow to the parking area and the boat-launching ramp. It is interesting to note that Lake Clementine, which is used exclusively for public recreational purposes, resulted from the North Fork Dam completed in 1938 and built by private funds in order to collect sedimentation from upriver hydraulic mining.  It was made superfluous a few years later when such operations were discontinued by state edict.

 

A short hike from here leads to an exciting view of the water cascading over the dam face.  Our walking route returns in the opposite direction to the confluence, affording fresh views of the surrounding canyons and river below.

 

The Auburn State Recreation Area Canyon Keepers (ASRACK) is a volunteer organization assisting the ASRA ranger staff .  They provides information and assistance to visitors, conduct a Jr. Ranger program, help construct and maintain  hiking trails and conduct  monthly educational meetings and hikes.  For further information or a volunteer application please call 885-3776 or check the ASRACK Web site.

 

www.psyber.com/~asra/asrack.htm